AMERICAN TOAD CARE SHEET Bufo americanus
PERSONAL EXPERIENCE: American Toads are truly one of the most gentle and lovable species of Amphibian. In the United States, these toads can be found everywhere east of the Rocky Mountains. They are found from central Canada to the northern regions of Mexico. They are common backyard friends. This species has seemed to adapt well to some human-modified habitats. You may have a porch friend who enjoys digging in your potted plants or using a back door light as a personal bug catcher! They cause no harm and are in fact an important member of the native ecosystem!
Catching American Toads is a memory almost every kid growing up in the Eastern United States has. Though they are very lovable toads, it is best to keep them in their native environment outdoors. This care sheet is for injured American Toads who are not able to return to the wild or captive breed toads.
DIFFICULTY: Beginner
LIFE SPAN: 10-12 years
ACTIVITY: American Toads are mainly nocturnal but can be seen basking in the sun or going for a swim during the day. These toads spend most of the day time resting in their burrows and emerging at sunset. This is when they soak, hunt, and males call out for mates. They are a bit “lazy” though! Do not be alarmed when your toad spends the whole day in its hide, that is perfectly normal! However, these toads are always ready to go when it comes to food.
ENCLOSURE: American Toads require a large amount of coconut fiber substrate to burrow in. 4-6 inches (10-15cm) is suggested if not more. Live leafy plants create amazing hiding spots and environmental enrichment! Toads love burrowing into the roots of plants (which can kill the plants) but the toads love it. I highly suggest a mixture of live and false plants to create a natural, comfortable environment. Log hides, driftwood, and plant pots on their side create amazing hiding places. I personally use log hides because it is more natural and doubles as somewhere they can climb on! Lastly, freshwater must be available at all times. I suggest a water bowl around 3 inches (8cm) deep and 6 inches (15cm) wide. If using tap water, water conditioner must be used. This removes harmful chemicals and makes the water safe for your amphibian. Directions vary so be sure to read the label before using.
SIZE OF ENCLOSURE: A single American Toad can live comfortably in a 30″ x 12″ x 12″ (76 x 30.5 x 30.5 cm) or 20-gallon long. For 2-4 toads a 36″ x 18″ x 16″ (91.5 x 46 x 40.5cm) or 40 gallon breeder is needed! American Toads need more horizontal space than vertical.
HUMIDITY: 50%
TEMPERATURE: Daytime temperatures should be 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit or 24 to 29 degrees Celsius.
Nighttime temperatures should never drop below 65 degrees Fahrenheit or 18 degrees Celsius.
LIGHTING: American Toads are primarily nocturnal. Despite this, visible light must be provided for 12 hours daily to maintain your toads natural circadian rhythm. 12-13 hour light cycles mimic summer conditions and can prevent brumation. Shorter light cycles of 8-10 hours mimic winter months which can result in symptoms like hunger strikes. A full spectrum grow light is best to sustain plant growth within your enclosure.
A heat lamp is never necessary unless temperatures drop below 65° F. A low wattage heat emitter set on a timer may be used in winter months. Unnecessary heat can result in drying of the enclosure, which may be fatal to amphibians.
UVB lighting is an essential aspect to the wellbeing of certain captive reptiles and amphibians. However, the quantity of which each species requires has not been heavily researched. Exposure to UVB allows for the synthesis of vitamin D3 within their skin. An essential micronutrient needed to metabolize calcium for healthy bone development, muscle function, immune function, and overall growth. Vitamin D may also be obtained through diet. It is dependent on the species whether diet supplementation of D3 can sustain proper vitamin D values. Too great of UVB exposure can have negative effects including but not limited to ocular damage and cancer. There is currently no research that specifies whether American Toads benefit from UVB lighting more than diet supplementation. Due to this lack of information, a safer route of providing your toad with Vitamin D would be through the diet. Continue reading to the “supplement” section for more important information on calcium and vitamin D3.
FEEDING: American Toads are primarily insectivores but are opportunistic, voracious eaters as they grow to adulthood. Mature toads may consume small mammals including pinkies and smaller amphibians. This is an important reason to only house toads of similar sizes together. Juvenile to fully mature toads require a diet consisting primarily of crickets or roaches. These insects are high in protein and low in fat. Horn worms may be provided occasionally as a snack, but do not provide much nutrition as they are ~90% water. Avoid mealworms and super worms as their hard exoskeleton made of chitin is difficult for amphibians to digest and they are higher in fat. Wax worms are also a poor choice due to their high fat percentage.
Juvenile toads should be fed daily. To determine what size of insect you should provide, an easy trick is to provide insects their fit between the toad’s eyes. As your toad’s growing slows, a feeding schedule every other day or 2-3 times weekly. The amount provided per feeding varies depending on each toad’s needs. For growing toads, placing them out of their enclosure into a separate bin and allowing them to eat as many insects as wanted for 10 minutes is a good method. As toad’s mature, adjust amount fed based on your toad’s body condition. Obesity is common in American Toads, be sure to not over feed.
SUPPLEMENTS: A vital aspect of maintaining your amphibian’s health in captivity is supplementing their diet with powdered vitamins and minerals. Meeting proper habitat requirements alone will not provide essential nutrients for them to thrive.
Powdered supplements should be dusted onto your amphibian’s meal at nearly every feeding. Calcium is an important nutrient amphibians receive primarily from supplementation. Proper calcium levels allow for healthy bone development, muscle, immune, and nerve function. Without proper calcium supplementation, toads can develop nutritional secondary hyperparathyroidism (NSHP) or more commonly known as metabolic bone disease (MBD). NSHP is the reason for the clinical manifestation that is MBD commonly seen in captive reptiles and amphibians. Here the parathyroid glands overcompensate for the lack of calcium, ultimately resulting in bone weakening as the body essentially “steals” calcium from the bones.
Thankfully with a proper diet, NSHP can be avoided altogether. Powdered calcium supplements are commonly sold in two forms, with vitamin D3 and without D3. Vitamin D3 is crucial micronutrient that aids in proper calcium absorption. Amphibians obtain vitamin D3 in two ways, through the diet and through synthesis within their skin from UVB exposure. Since UVB exposure within captivity for amphibians is extremely limited, the safest way to ensure your frog has vitamin D3 is through their diet.
Other important micronutrients include vitamin A. Multivitamins contain these needed nutrients. A recommended supplementation for a frog includes calcium without D3 twice weekly, calcium with D3 once weekly, and multivitamin once every two weeks.
HOW TO SEX: Males have darker colored throats and call for females during the breeding season (March-July). They have bumpy skin, that tends to be bumpier during the breeding season. Males also typically chirp when handled.
Females have cream colored throats, smooth skin, and are typically larger than males.
SIZE: As explained above, American Toads vary in size based on sex. An estimate length for an adult American Toad is 2-3.5 inches (5-9cm).
I AM NEW TO FROGS, ARE THEY GOOD FOR BEGINNERS?
These toads are great for beginners! Easy to care for, maintain, and they enjoy interacting with people!